Ready for all the spring gardening!

April 18, 2021

If you'd rather click through the photos in a gallery, go here.

We're beginning to enter the time of year I have a hard time staying in doors (and sewing). Even winter in Western Washington is so mild that I spend time cleaning up the property and plotting my warm-weather gardening. 

In high school I wore overalls all the time, and Mikey has always liked them (aesthetically and functionally). But I haven't had any in years. I spotted Pauline Alice's Turia dungarees pattern a few years ago. I didn't feel any need to buy it but kept it in mind as the style I'd want to make one day. So when I got an email that they had all patterns on sale, I bought it (even though it was available only as a PDF — hate taping together patterns!). I also grabbed the Saler jacket on sale.

I REALLY like this pattern, but of course I added my own touches. In fact I enjoyed the process of constructing these so much, I nearly immediately bought more fabric and made a second pair for yardwork.

I cut size 38, based on my hip measurements only because I figured waist and bust would be irrelevant in this style. I changed the construction order to stitch the inseam before the crotch, so I could adjust the fit if needed. But I liked the straight 38 fit, so no changes needed.

My favorite change to the pattern was to use a cotton lining on the insides of all the patch pockets. It closed them all so nicely, so there would be no unfinished edges and provides a fun little pop of color.

I also used the cotton shirting to make bias strips to finish the back sides, which called for just folding under and topstitching. The green floral fabric is leftover from a Sewaholic Granville I made last year.

The smallest change I made was adding a strip of interfacing to the top of what the pattern calls the bodice. Are the front of overalls called bibs?

But the biggest change was to the side seams. The inseams and crotch instructions call for flat-fell seams. That's the type of seam in your jeans. It's supposed to hold up better than a standard seam, which felt appropriate for overalls.

The side seams in this pattern switch to a regular seam for the side seams because they call for zippers on the sides. (I actually didn't even notice the instructions included it on both sides, used a zipper only on the left, and like the result.) I didn't care for this because I knew I wanted to roll these, and they'd look best with flat-fell seams all around.

I searched the internet for a tutorial on inserting a zipper into a flat-fell seam and found NOTHING. So I figured it out and made my own

Previously I've really disliked using flat-fell seams because they're so difficult if you need to adjust sizing later. And they require you to trim one side of the seam, which always makes me scared I'm going to accidentally nip my garment (such as here and here).

So I finally bought some duckbill scissors (also called appliqué scissors). These things were awesome. They worked really well, and I felt so confident using them. I will definitely use them when trimming to decrease bulk in collars and such from now on. Highly recommend an investment into a pair of duckbill scissors!

Only one good goof on this project. When turning one of the straps right side out, my turner accidentally broke through the fabric. I just sewed the end again parallel to the original stitching. I had already (successfully) turned the other one right side out, so I had to shorten it at the unfinished end to make them the same length.

For future makes, I should shorten the straps a few inches because I'm short from my chest to shoulders and have a lot of excess strap length. 

This pattern has lots of great pockets. They're all big enough to be useful. (An iPhone 11 Pro fits in the bib pocket perfectly.) But not so giant to be ugly. I think I could have topstitched a little closer to the edges of all the patch pockets and did on the second version. 

I topstitched everything in two rows except the flat-fell seams. These should hold up well!

I cut the length to the largest size and hemmed according to the instructions. 

The week after I finished these I went to Esther's looking for fabric to make another pair. This Rifle Paper Co. linen-cotton canvas was perfect. I wanted something just a little lighter weight than the corduroy, a base color that would hide dirt, and with a floral pattern, and this fit all those requirements.

I made only minor adjustments to the construction of this pair. I hemmed them the same length but folded it over smaller, so it would roll nicer. And I added a snap to the top of the side zip because this fabric has just a hair more drape.

I got really lucky in cutting. I didn't notice the butterflies are only in one direction, and I happened to cut this out butterflies up!

These overalls were my first make of 2021, but just before the end of 2020, I made the olive merino T-shirt.

It's the Geneva raglan by Named. It's a discontinued pattern, so I guess I was lucky to find it. When I bought the fabric at Esther's I wanted a new T-shirt pattern, as I was kind of tired of making the Sewaholic Renfrew. (I'm actually working on a big project of cultivating a "closet" for my website, where you can see every garment I've ever made on one page. I'm only a couple of years in and already have six Renfews documented!)

I'd never made a Named pattern before, so it was nice to try another indie pattern. The instructions for this were exceedingly simple, and seam allowances are not included. So it is not a pattern for beginners although making this pattern is extremely quick and easy.

I cut size 38 at the bust, grading down to 36 at the waist. I ended up taking it in an inch under the arms and folded the sleeve hem twice instead of once. Those were my only changes this time.

The shoulder darts are a little long for me, so next time I might shorten them an inch. For this shirt I pressed the hell out of them with a bunch of steam and made them work.

After I'd finished this shirt, I realized I had little in my pants wardrobe that went well with olive. I think they'd go great with a rolled cuff skinny khaki pant. Which is what inspired me to use the light khaki corduroy fabric for the overalls. I've had it in my stash since one of our first visits to Fabric Recycles. I had planned to make a jacket from it but never was inspired to use it until now.

Finally, meet my newest photobomber, Egon! He looked just like Winston in his shelter photos (and in real life), and he has the energy of a young Winston! We did a DNA test and were surprised he has no German shorthaired pointer in his ancestry!

Also, this photo is from early January. My braid is a few inches longer already!

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