Summer dress for fall

Sept. 30, 2018

If you'd rather click through the photos in a gallery, go here.

I finally finished a summer dress.

I started this dress months ago. I worked on it a few minutes at a time all summer and finished it just in time for the weather to start cooling off. 

This is Butterick 6090 made with a lightweight rayon challis I bought several years ago at Fabric Recycles

This is the first pattern I've used by Butterick, but I figured the sizing was the same as the other big pattern companies. So I cut size 10 based on Simplicity patterns I've made.

I decided to use my time as selectively as possible as I spend far too little of it in my sewing room. So I chose to cut the tissue for this pattern rather than trace it. I just don't have time for it anymore and just have to make some sacrifices.

I ended up taking in the side seams three-eights-inch, and it's still a touch big. It could just be this year's marathon training, so I'll see how it fits next summer and maybe take it in some more. And I'll definitely cut a size 8 next time. Other alterations included taking in the horizontal yoke seam to accommodate my short shoulders and shortening the hem about an inch.

Fitting was easy enough, but I find the back darts are a touch pointy. You can see it better in the pic on my dress form. It smoothed out a bit in the pictures on my body, but I could see them in the mirror. (BTW, the color is truer to the outdoor photos.)

If the buttons were a little closer to the edge, it wouldn't pull away slightly/Buttons are from Esther's.

A couple of production/pattern quality issues could be improved. For one, the buttons or buttonholes are a little too far from the edge, so I'll need to fiddle with that placement next time. 

Second, I don't appreciate instructions to clip to reinforced corners before stitching (as in the yoke attachment). It's lazy pattern making. Indie patterns don't do this. They expect better techniques from their users (or teach them in the instructions).

The pattern didn't call for topstitching, but it's a go-to detail for me. And I used it to hold a lot of facings in place, including all along the back. (Now if only I had remembered to interface that neckline facing. Oops.)

I'm not sure how much I'll end up wearing this dress, as the fabric ended up having some white stains from wrinkles. I cut around them as best I could, but they're still noticeable. Sort of wearable muslin, I suppose.

Despite all its problems, I don't hate the dress. In fact, I like the pattern a bit and look forward to making it again. One positive: Although I thought this dress was going to be low-cut based on the drawings, ends up I can wear it with a sports bra. Hidden comfort!

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